Tea and Honey Harmonize with the Sea
Long before "culinary fusion" became a menu commonplace, Robert Wemischner, chef, teacher, author and media personality, was a dedicated practitioner. Explains Wemischner, "I've always been intrigued by the crossover potential of exotic ingredients. From my first days as a chef's apprentice in France, I've reprised this theme throughout my career, in catering, teaching and recipe development."
In his book Cooking with Tea, Wemischer explores the cross-cultural potential of tea, utilizing the vast and vivid flavors of this familiar beverage as a versatile ingredient in cooking. When looking for flavors and textures to complement the delicate and silky nuances of tea, Wemischner often reaches for honey.
A popular accompaniment to tea, honey's range of floral varieties offers Wemischner an equal palette of colors and flavors with which to experiment. In Cooking with Tea, some of Wemischner's most masterful creations combine tea and honey with seafood. His recipe for Tea-Sauced Scallops with Orange, Soy and Honey blends sea with sweet and fruity elements-large, fresh sea scallops, Chinese black Keemun tea, orange and honey. While Morocco-Darjeeling Halibut balances mild fish with sweet/hot spices, fragrant lavender honey and musky Darjeeling tea. Says Wemischner, "My interest in cooking with honey grew with my fascination with tea. They're a natural pairing, with possibilities extending far beyond the classic beverage service. The recipes in my latest book just begin to skim the surface."
Wemischner's career reflects his eclectic culinary style. After graduating from the University of Pennsylvania with a degree in Oriental Studies, his culinary aspirations led him to France here he apprenticed with a series of Michelin-starred chefs. Returning to the U.S., he opened a string of food-oriented businesses. Beginning with a catering operation in New Jersey where he treated clients to his eclectic fusion cuisine, he followed with a ground-breaking gourmet shop in Beverly Hills (CA), and a specialty food business in Baltimore (MD) which supplied customers like Macy's. At the same time, he began building his reputation as a cooking teacher and culinary educator, with stints at l'Academie de Cuisine (Washington D.C.), the International Culinary College (Baltimore) and the James Beard House (New York). Currently, he is on the faculty of Los Angeles' Trade Technical College where he teaches Professional Baking and Entrepreneurial Studies.
Wemischner's schedule also bristles with speaking engagements and writing assignments. He is co-editor of the International Association of Culinary Professionals' Entreprenews, a section of that organization's newsletter devoted to entrepreneurial members. He is an active member of the American Culinary Federation and a frequent contributor to The National Culinary Review, ACF's monthly publication. He has also written diverse food-related articles for the Los Angeles Times and the Oregonian (Portland OR). He has appeared on several public television and cable food shows both in the U.S. and Canada, and as a guest on radio programs including "A Chef's Table" (WHYY-Philadelphia). Wemischner and his recipes have also been featured in trade publications such as Food Arts, Nation's Restaurant News, Gourmet Retailer and Baking Buyer.
Recipes and photos: Cooking with Tea, by Robert Wemischner and Diana Rosen, Periplus Editions, Ltd., 2000. Photos by Susan Bourgoin of Visual Cuisines.
Morocco-Darjeeling Halibut
Makes 4 servings
2 |
pounds halibut steak,
bone in, |
1/2 |
teaspoon coarse salt |
1/2 |
teaspoon ground black pepper |
2 |
Tablespoons fruity olive oil |
1 |
large onion, thinly sliced |
1 |
pound fresh ripe
tomatoes, skinned and |
1 |
large lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed |
1 |
cup dark raisins |
1 |
teaspoon dried ground ginger |
1/2 |
teaspoon ground allspice |
4 |
cloves garlic, smashed, then finely minced |
1/2 |
teaspoon hot pepper
powder (Moroccan, |
1 |
quart spring water |
4 |
Tablespoons Darjeeling muscatel tea leaves |
1/2 |
cup Lavender or Clover honey |
Wash and dry the fish. Season on both sides with salt and pepper. Lightly coat a 3-quart ovenproof dish with olive oil. Center the fish, onions and tomatoes in the dish. Scatter lemon slices and raisins over all. Add the remaining spices to the dish. Brew the tea in water heated to 185-190°F for 5 minutes, then dissolve the honey in it. Pour all of it over the fish and bake, covered lightly with foil, for about 35 minutes or until the fish flakes easily when pierced with a fork.
Carefully pour the braising liquid from the pan into a heavy 2-quart saucepan. Keep the fish warm while reducing the liquid over high heat to a coating consistency. Divide the fish into 4 equal servings and sauce each. Suggested accompaniments are steamed butternut squash seasoned with cinnamon and basmati rice.
Tea-Sauced Scallops with Orange, Soy and Honey
Makes 4 servings
2 |
Tablespoons fruity olive oil |
1 |
large clove garlic |
1 |
lb. sea scallops |
|
Juice of 1 large orange (about 1/2 cup) |
1 |
Tablespoon Keemun tea leaves |
2 |
teaspoons light soy sauce |
1 |
Tablespoon honey |
|
Cooked Chinese noodles or linguine pasta |
Heat the olive oil until hot, almost smoking.
Add the garlic and stir briefly. Next add the scallops and cook 2 minutes
on each side, turning once to brown evenly. Remove the scallops to
a small bowl and keep warm.
Deglaze the pan with the orange juice, stirring to dislodge any browned particles that adhere to the pan. Add the tea leaves and cook, stirring for another 30 seconds. Add the soy sauce, honey and any liquid from the scallops that has pooled in the bowl. Cook just until the sauce thickens slightly.
Pour through a fine-meshed sieve placed over a bowl and return sauce to the pan. Taste to correct seasoning is necessary. Coat the scallops with the sauce and serve on a nest of noodles or pasta. Garnish with fresh cilantro leaves or finely slivered scallion, if desired.
Recipes and photos: Cooking with Tea, by Robert Wemischner and Diana Rosen, Periplus Editions, Ltd., 2000. Photos by Susan Bourgoin of Visual Cuisines.